Category Archives: Appetizers

Spring Rolls with “No-Peanut” Sauce

Posted on February 28, 2013 by | 5 Comments

Spring Rolls with Almond Butter Sauce 1 (1)

Are there foods that you suddenly have an powerful desire for?  I’m sure this happens to us all, whether it is for chocolate fudge or Chex Mix (ahem).  I wonder what drives those cravings.  Is it simply the power of suggestion, or is there some physical or psychological need that is begging to be filled?

I started craving fresh spring rolls – with enough intensity to send me to the crowded Dekalb International Farmers Market for rice paper wrappers and Thai basil.  It started with a suggestion – photos found on Pinterest.  I have avoided browsing that time-pit up to now, but two friends kept posting recipes there and made me look.  (Thanks LGO and TFM!) Once I got there, it was non-stop pinning of things I wanted to make – including these spring rolls from Chaos in the Kitchen.  There were other inviting recipes, but the idea of spring rolls would not let me go.  After being on vacation and eating indulgently, perhaps my body was telling me some crispy, raw vegetables would be a nice change.  Or maybe my soul needed the promise of freshness and spring after returning to dreary, damp, cold weather.

Whatever the reason, these colorful spring rolls brightened my day and made my taste buds simply ecstatic.  I was intimidated with the prospect of working with the fragile rice paper, but this photo tutorial from White on Rice Couple made it really easy.  You don’t really need a recipe – just gather ingredients that you like and roll them up!  If you’re looking for inspiration, here’s a start! I’m looking forward to also trying cucumber, jicama, avocado, and cabbage in the rolls.

Ingredients (for 8 rolls):

  • 8 rice paper wrappers (spring roll skins)
  • Lettuce leaves (Boston or butter lettuce, hard spines removed)
  • Several sprigs of Thai basil (about 24 leaves).  Other varieties of basil will also work.
  • Small bunch of cilantro, large stems removed
  • 1 red bell pepper, cut into thin strips
  • 2 carrots, julienned (I use this wonderful kitchen tool)
  • Small, cooked pink shrimp (4 or 5 per roll)

“No Peanut” Sauce ingredients:

Okay, before you get started make sure you look at these wonderfully photographed instructions.  Right here!

Prepare sauce by combining all sauce ingredients in a small bowl; stir well to combine.  Adjust to taste (more hot sauce, etc.).  Adjust consistency of the sauce by adding water, a tablespoon at a time.  Set aside.  Sauce can be stored in the refrigerator, but you may want to warm it up to room temperature for serving. (A few seconds in the microwave will help.)

Have all the spring roll filling ingredients washed and prepped before starting.

Add hot water (bath-like temperature) to a large bowl.  Take one rice paper wrapper and dip it completely in the hot water for 10 seconds (or less).  The paper should be wet, but still stiff.  Place the paper flat on a non-porous surface.

Starting layering the other ingredients on the lower third of the rice paper.  I started with the shrimp because they look nice through the paper, once rolled.  Add lettuce leaves, 2 or 3 basil leaves, carrots, bell pepper, a couple sprigs of cilantro, etc.  Try not to overfill the wrapper because it will be difficult to roll.  (After a little practice, you’ll be able to figure out the right amount of filling.  You can eat your “mistakes” right away.)

Carefully pull up the rice paper from the bottom (nearest you) and pull it over the filling.  Use your fingers to tuck the filling in toward you, to make the roll tighter.  Start rolling away from you.  After one rotation, fold in the rice paper on the left and right sides to enclose the filling.  Continue to roll until the rice paper meets at the top – it will seal itself.  Set the roll aside, and cover lightly with cellophane and a damp towel.

Continue making the rest of the rolls and set them aside with the others.  The wrappers will stick to each other and tear if they touch each other at first, so space them out or place cellophane between them.

They are best served immediately or within a couple of hours, while fresh.  The rice paper will start getting stiff and dry pretty quickly, especially in the refrigerator.  If you want to have them for a later time (within 24 hours or so), wrap each roll individually in cellophane and place in a resealable plastic bag with a dampened paper towel.  I kept a few rolls overnight this way, and while not as delicate as fresh, the rice paper was still relatively soft.

Enjoy!Spring Rolls with Almond Butter Sauce 2 (1)

sonvoltJay Farrar has been one of the leading figures in the roots music scene since he days heading up Uncle Tupelo and Son Volt. To my ears, he’s rarely sounded as good and as open as on the new Son Volt release Honky Tonk. Created as an homage to the great Bakersfield country sound of the ’60s, this record is a winner, full of fiddles and pedal steel guitar. Glorious!

fastmoveFarrar and Death Cab for Cutie’s Ben Gibbard teamed up to do the soundtrack to a documentary to one of my favorite books, Jack Kerouac’s Big Sur entitled One Fast Move Or I’m Gone: Music From Kerouac’s Big Sur. Low-key and intriguing, it captures the book and it’s time well. Recommended.

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Game Day / Party Food Roundup

Posted on January 28, 2013 by | 9 Comments

There’s a big day coming up soon in the US for football enthusiasts.  We rarely watch sporting events, but we appreciate any excuse to graze through party food and make a meal of appetizers.  I’m not sure what we’ll be feasting on this year, but here’s some ideas from our archives.

eggplant pepper dip

You can’t have a party without dip – but skip the sour cream and ranch dressing mix for something more interesting (and nutritious) like this Roasted Eggplant and Sweet Pepper Dip.  It’s a little like baba ghanoush with the sweetness of roasted peppers thrown in.  Serve it with crackers, pita triangles, or as a dip for vegetables.

Multi grain cracker wm

Speaking of crackers, these gluten-free Crispy Nutty Crackers are just the thing to serve with cheese or spreads.  There are six kinds of nuts and/or seeds in every bite, so they have lots of flavor.Crispy cheesy crackers

However if just sitting down with a bowl of cheesy crackers is more your thing, these 3-Cheese Crackers are addictive and will really hit the spot.  You can’t go wrong with Cheddar, Parmesan and Jack cheese!  They are SO much better than the kind that come in a box, and are surprisingly simple to make.  Try to share…

cheeseball jalapeno 691

If you’re a cheese lover, you will enjoy this Jalapeno and Pimento Cheese Ball.  This kicked-up version of pimento cheese, with smoked Gouda, Monterey Jack cheese and roasted jalapeno peppers  is sure to be a hit.  Roll it in roasted pumpkin seeds for a more spectacular presentation.

Stuffed mushroom in tin

What’s a party without bacon?  These Mushrooms Stuffed with Cream Cheese and Bacon are quick and easy.  Bake them in mini-muffin tins to keep them from falling over, and serve ‘em hot, right out of the oven.

Grilled lemon pepper wings wm

Ready for something a little more substantial?  Chicken wings are practically a requirement for game-day eating, and these Lemon-Pepper Wings are a good no-fuss choice.  I like all varieties of wings with gooey sauces, but if you invited people over, you probably don’t want lots of sticky fingers around your sofa.  Whether you grill them or bake them, these are crispy and delicious.

Candied Rosemary Walnuts (1)So…what have we left out?  A big bowl of mixed nuts?  Something sweet?  How about a little of both, with Candied Rosemary Walnuts?  I made these previously to go with Honey Walnut Shrimp, but they are irresistible all by themselves.  They will go fast, so you may want to double the recipe (if you do, you may need to cook in two batches).

Candied Rosemary Walnuts (makes 3 cups)

  • 3 cups whole walnuts (or a mix of nuts if you wish)
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1/3 cup coconut palm sugar
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped
  • sea salt, to taste

Preheat oven to 350F.  Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet in a single layer and roast in the oven for 10-15 minutes.  Remove from oven and set aside.  In a large skillet, melt the butter.  Stir in the coconut palm sugar, honey, and rosemary until well blended and the butter is foamy.  Add the walnuts and cook over medium-high heat, tossing continuously, until the walnuts are well-glazed with the sugar mixture (3-4 minutes), being careful not to burn the walnuts.  Spread the walnuts back out on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet to cool.  Sprinkle with sea salt while hot.  Toss them around occasionally to keep them from sticking together.  The sugar-glaze will harden and will not be sticky when they are cool.  Store in a sealed container at room temperature.

Enjoy!

agYeah, not big sports fans around here, but hey, always up for a party! Kick off Super Bowl Sunday with the hysterical routine by Andy Griffith “What It Was, Was Football” on Wit & Wisdom of Andy Griffith. Funny!

gingaMaybe you think of football in another way, like the rest of the world? We gotcha covered with Ginga – The Sound Of Brazilian Football about the worlds most popular sport, soccer! Can’t go wrong with the music here, including Jorge Ben…footie!

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Honey Walnut Shrimp

Posted on January 1, 2013 by | 15 Comments

Honey walnut shrimp sq

My memory is not always the best.  I often hear people reminiscing with such detail about their past  – details that I can never muster from my foggy brain.  What they wore on their first day of school, their thoughts on the first time they saw the ocean, where they were when they first heard Stairway to Heaven.  I can’t remember that stuff!  What I can remember is every  time that I have had Honey Walnut Shrimp.  The first time was in San Francisco in the 80′s with my friend Cynthia, before we set off on our grand camping trip through Napa Valley and Yosemite.  The last time was also in California, with James on our 2nd honeymoon trip through the Russian River Valley.  Those delicate, crispy-fried shrimp, tossed in a creamy sauce, lightly sweet with honey, and topped with crunchy candied walnuts… I had never had such a sublime dish in a Chinese restaurant back home.  Nor could I find it anywhere nearby…until now!  Once I got over that fear of frying, this wonderful treat is now available in my own kitchen.

I adapted this recipe from Chinese Honey Walnut Shrimp found at Use Real Butter, but it is originally from Easy Chinese Recipes by Bee Yinn Low.  The main change I made was to use far less sugary walnuts.  Instead of glazing the walnuts in syrup, I toasted them, then tossed them in a butter and coconut palm sugar mixture, with a little rosemary and sea salt thrown in to make them more savory (nut recipe adapted from marthastewart.com).  I also replaced the cornstarch coating on the shrimp with tapioca starch.

We enjoyed these shrimp with a side of roasted broccoli.  It made a fantastic celebratory New Year’s Eve / Wedding Anniversary dinner.  (Note:  Goes well with champagne!)

Ingredients (generously serves 2)

  • 1 pound medium raw shrimp, cleaned
  • 1 egg white
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • tapioca starch for coating shrimp (about 1 cup)
  • oil suitable for high-heat frying @ 350F

Dressing

  • 3 heaping tablespoons mayonnaise (make your own - good way to use the extra egg yolk)
  • 2 teaspoons heavy cream or coconut milk
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Candied Rosemary Walnuts (makes 3 cups, store leftovers in sealed jar)

  • 3 cups whole walnuts
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1/3 cup coconut palm sugar
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • ~2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped
  • sea salt, to taste

To prepare the walnuts:  Preheat oven to 350F.  Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet in a single layer and roast in the oven for 10-15 minutes.  Remove from oven and set aside.  In a large skillet, melt the butter.  Stir in the coconut palm sugar, honey, and rosemary until well blended and the butter is foamy.  Add the walnuts and cook over medium-high heat, tossing continuously, until the walnuts are well-glazed with the sugar mixture (3-4 minutes), being careful not to burn the walnuts.  Spread the walnuts back out on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet to cool.  Sprinkle with sea salt while hot.  Toss them around occasionally to keep them from sticking together.  The sugar-glaze will harden and will not be sticky when they are cool.

Thirty minutes before cooking the shrimp, mix the egg white with the salt in a medium-sized bowl.  Rinse the shrimp and dry with paper toweling.  Add the shrimp to the egg whites and allow to marinate, stirring occasionally.

Prepare the sauce by mixing the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.  Set aside.  Put about a cup of the tapioca starch in another small bowl for dredging the shrimp.

Frying in grapeseed oil (hence the green color)

Frying in grapeseed oil (hence the green color)

Prepare a cooling rack over paper towels for draining the shrimp.  Heat 2 to 3 inches of oil in a heavy pan to 350F.  Working in small batches (6-8 shrimp, depending on the size of your pan), dredge the shrimp individually in the tapioca starch, shaking off the excess, and drop carefully into the hot oil.  Fry until the shrimp are crisp and starting to brown (about 4 minutes).

Honey walnut shrimp draining

Crispy critters

Maintain the oil temperature at 350-375F.  Scoop the shrimp out with a strainer and place on the cooling rack.  Repeat for each batch until done.

Place the crispy shrimp in a large bowl.  Toss with the dressing until glossy and well-coated.  (You may not need all the dressing.)  Serve with the candied walnuts over the shrimp.  Enjoy!

Honey walnut shrimp wide2

cdTruly a meal fit for an anniversary…and the first post of the new year! Going to start off our “menu music” with a couple from one of my favorite musicians, Collin Walcott. A founding member of Oregon, he sadly died far too soon in a car crash while on tour, but not before released a body of work that married his sitar and tablas with improvisational attitudes of the West. First was his first solo record, Cloud Dance. Walcott is joined here by guitarist John Abercrombie, Dave Holland on bass, and legendary drummer Jack DeJohnette. Together they create an entire library of new music, expanding the reach of both ancient Eastern sounds as well as the jazz of the west. Incredible!

Equally incredible was Codona, one of the first world music/jazz supergroups, codonawhich found Walcott playing with trumpeter Don Cherry and the great Nana Vasconcelos. Simply indescribable, the box set Codona Trilogy  collects all of their recorded work, and you really haven’t heard anything like it. Trust me, any group that somehow manages to make a piece from two Ornette Coleman tunes coupled with Stevie Wonder’s “Sir Duke” is beyond compare. Enjoy!

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Shrimp Fritters aka Shrimp Puppies (gluten-free)

Posted on November 4, 2012 by | 6 Comments

When shrimp meet hush puppies….

As I’ve mentioned before, I rarely fry anything.  Me and a hot vat of oil just don’t get along.  Every once in awhile, however, I get this craving for crispy battered objects and out comes the cast iron pan and the clip-on thermometer.  Who doesn’t love fried shrimp…and who doesn’t love hush puppies?  These Shrimp Fritters are a bit of both.

For people unacquainted with hush puppies – bless your unclogged hearts.  Where I grew up, these tasty bits of fried cornbread are served by the basketful in barbeque and seafood joints.  Some people make them sweet, some people make them savory – I like a little of both.

Friday nights have become our night for dining indulgence, and we try to have fun-food.  Chicken wings, hot dogs with gluten-free buns, gluten-free pizza…yeah, not exactly 5 Star cuisine, but it feels like a reward for slogging through another work week.  We enjoyed these fritters with two dipping sauces – one spicy mayonnaise-based sauce with Srichacha, and the other sweet honey butter.  It was all good!

Ingredients:

  • 3/4 cup corn meal (organic if you can find it)
  • 1/4 cup rice flour
  • 2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning
  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 sweet onion, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
  • 2 tablespoons melted butter or olive oil
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tablespoon honey (more if you like ‘em sweet)
  • 1/2 cup milk (buttermilk would be best)
  • 2 cups shrimp, coarsely chopped *
  • sea salt/kosher salt and pepper, to taste
  • Oil suitable for high heat cooking (I used grapeseed oil)

*Note:  I used tiny pre-cooked tiny “salad” shrimp that I had in my freezer, but this should work with pre-cooked or raw regular shrimp, if chopped up.

In a mixing bowl, combine the dry ingredients.  In a separate bowl (or large measuring cup), combine the milk, butter, egg, and honey.  Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry and stir until just combined.  Stir in the chopped onion, shrimp, and a pinch of salt and pepper.

In a deep fry cooker or heavy, deep pan, heat about 1-inch (at least) of oil to 350F.  You want enough oil in the pan to “float” the fritters.  When the oil reaches temperature, drop the shrimp batter into the oil by the spoonful.  I cooked about 4 at a time – you don’t want to crowd them in or the temperature will drop and they will be greasy.  Cook for about 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown and cooked throughout.  Scoop out and drain on paper towels.

As you cook, try to maintain the temperature between 350F and 375F, and add oil if necessary between batches.  You also will want to use a mesh strainer to scoop out any stray bits or foam so they will not burn and mess up your oil.

Serve hot, with or without sauce(s) of your choice.

Recently scored two LPs at Tall Stax- the great Al Green! First up, I’m Still In Love With You featuring hits such as the title cut and the grand “Love And Happiness”…so soulful, so romantic!

Al Green Explores Your Mind is a masterpiece of Memphis soul, with “Sha-La-La (Make Me Happy)” and “Take Me To The River”, since redone by Levon Helm and more famously, the Talking Heads. These early albums of Al Green are classics…much like the Shrimp Fritters!

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Roasted Cauliflower Soup (gluten-free, dairy-free)

Posted on October 14, 2012 by | 14 Comments

Inspiration: Puree of White Bean Soup from Brasserie le Coze

Avoid doing this.

This week I got a blender, a powerful one, something that incredulously was missing from my arsenal of cooking tools.  I could not wait to take it for a spin.  After making a couple of smoothies, I thought I had the hang of it.  Let’s just say there is a learning curve… more on that later!

Years ago there was a French restaurant in one of Atlanta’s Buckhead shopping malls.  It was in a strange location, but Brasserie le Coze had some fantastic dishes.  I’m sure it was the first place I encountered skate wings in browned butter, one of their classics.  Another favorite was a puree of white bean soup, served in a crock with a drizzle of white truffle oil.  That soup is the inspiration for this recipe, in which I’ve replaced the beans with roasted cauliflower, and taken out the dairy.  (To be honest, I meant to add cream to the soup but forgot during the fiasco with the blender.  However the soup absolutely does not need the cream.) The result is a soup lower in carbs, but with all the depth of flavor of the original.

You may be wondering how I managed to make such a soupy kitchen disaster.  Well, when the instructions with the blender say “do not overfill”, they aren’t kidding.  Of particular note, hot liquids tend to steam quite a bit when you enclose them in a jar under turbo-blending conditions, and even with the vents in the lid, that steam will lift the lid right off the jar and erupt like Mauna Loa.  Lesson learned, thankfully without injury.

Ingredients:

  • 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets (about 8 cups)
  • extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4 slices bacon, diced
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 1 leek, white and pale green parts, chopped and rinsed well
  • 1 carrot, chopped
  • 1 rib celery, chopped
  • 8 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
  • 6 cups chicken broth
  • ~1 teaspoon fresh rosemary
  • ~1/2 teaspoon dried thyme (or 2 t fresh thyme)
  •  salt and pepper, to taste
  • Optional: white truffle oil, bacon bits, to garnish*

* Note: I used ~1/2 teaspoon of truffle salt in the final seasoning, since I did not have any white truffle oil.  Instead I garnished the soup with crumbled bacon bits.

Preheat oven to 400F.  Place the cauliflower in a shallow roasting pan and toss with enough olive oil to coat the cauliflower and the pan.  Roast for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is browned in spots and tender.  Set aside.

In a large Dutch oven or stock pot, cook the diced bacon over medium heat until it renders its fat (do not crisp).  Add a glurg of olive oil, and the onion, leek, carrot, celery and garlic; saute until tender.  Add the roasted cauliflower, chicken broth, rosemary, and thyme.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook, covered, for about 1 hour.

Puree (carefully!) with a blender, immersion blender, or food processor – in batches, as necessary.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  Garnish each serving with a drizzle of truffle oil, or with crispy bacon bits.

Delicious soup needs a delicious soundtrack, yes? Who better than Catherine Irwin, leader of the great, but unknown Freakwater! Her first album in a decade, Little Heater is a sparse but moving set of songs, born by Irwin’s haunting vocals, akin to Hazel Dickens or Hank Sr.

What, you don’t know Freakwater? Perish the thought! They came around in the initial stages of the “alt-country” movement, and their debut album, Feels Like the Third Time is a classic. Take a listen to the first track- “My Old Drunk Friend”, and I guarantee you’ll be sold on their old country with a kick sound. Tremendous!

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Summer Squash Hummus (Bean-less, Gluten-free)

Posted on July 3, 2012 by | 2 Comments

I find myself with a surplus of white, patty pan squash.  I have roasted it, baked it in a casserole, and eaten it sliced and sauteed in butter.  It’s all good – but I know there are gardeners (and cooks) out there that are looking for more things to do with their bounty of summer squash.

I have seen recipes for raw zucchini hummus, so it only seemed logical that other varieties of summer squash might work just as well.  What do you know – the patty pan squash worked just great.  This recipe is especially good for people that like hummus but don’t tolerate bean dips well  – and of course it is handy for people following a low-carb diet or paleo / primal diet.  Just look at the carbs in a half cup of chickpeas (22.5) vs a half cup of summer squash (2.5).

Serve this with raw vegetables, gluten-free crackers, or even use it as a salad dressing.  You will need a food processor or a powerful blender to get a smooth texture. For this recipe, I used a good-sized patty pan squash that I somewhat peeled (it is hard to peel around all the curves on this space-ship shaped squash).  Don’t worry if you leave some peel on!  Also, since this squash was biggish, I cut it in half and scooped out the seeds and pulp, using only firm, white flesh for the hummus.

Ingredients:

  • 3 cups peeled, de-seeded and chopped summer squash (I used patty pan, but other varieties of summer squash can be used.)
  • 1/3 cup lemon or lime juice
  • 3 tablespoons good quality olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 3/4 cup tahini
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • 3 tablespoons almond flour (optional, for added texture)
  • a few shakes of smoked paprika
  • a few shakes of cayenne pepper

Add all the ingredients to the food processor except for the tahini.  Blend well, until smooth.  Add tahini and blend for several minutes until the hummus is very smooth, scraping down the sides occasionally.  Adjust seasoning, to taste.  I think that allowing it to mellow in the refrigerator for a while improves the texture and taste.  Serve drizzled with more olive oil or sprinkled with a little paprika.

Two from the incredible Albert King today, focusing on his great work in Memphis! First up, a new reissue of his classic ’70s album I’ll Play the Blues for You. Backed up by The Bar-Kays and the Memphis Horns, this is soulful blues that only Albert could play.

Born Under a Bad Sign has King recording with Booker T and the MGs, and the title track and “Crosscut Saw” became staples of Albert’s live set for years. A classic!

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Balsamic Pork Belly

Posted on June 6, 2012 by | 11 Comments

Recipe adapted from Ian Knauer’s Sticky Balsamic Ribs

I hope you are not tired of pork belly, for a couple of reasons.  First, this is the best version yet!  (Yes, I say that every time.)  The second reason is because I still have a few pounds of it in my freezer, so chances are you are going to see more of it.

While looking for a marinade for ribs, I came across what has to be the most highly praised recipe short of when the ancient Mesopotamians recorded the first recipe for beer, as handed down from the god Enki.  Ian Knauer, a former food editor for Gourmet magazine, said “These ribs just might be the best thing I’ve ever come up with.”  Food 52 proclaimed the recipe “Genius”.  Ruth Reichl wrote about them in her journal after making them again and again.  Review after review – serving these ribs made you the most popular person in the world. Well heck, I thought, if this is good enough for ribs, it should be heavenly on pork belly!

Looks heavenly, right?  To use Ms. Reichl’s words – “Smokey, Sweet, Tangy, Sticky”  – that’s all you have to know.

I halved the original recipe since I was marinating a small slab of pork belly vs 8 pounds of ribs.  Also I substituted coconut palm sugar for the brown sugar, to decrease the glycemic load.  We were smoking ribs, so the pork belly went in the Big Green Egg with the ribs.  However, you can also roast it in the oven using these instructions from Jamie Oliver.

The last time we smoked a pork belly, we found that the skin was very tough and ended up cutting it off.  This time I borrowed Jamie Oliver’s technique for crackling the skin before putting the belly in the smoker, which resulted in a crispier, edible rind.

Ingredients:

  • 1 slab of pork belly (1-3 pounds, or whatever you have)
  • 4 large garlic cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt + 2 teaspoons kosher salt (divided)
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
  • 1 tablespoon coconut palm sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 3/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the glaze:

  • 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 1/4 cup coconut palm sugar
  • 1/4 cup water

Rinse the pork belly and dry with paper towels.  Using a very sharp knife, cut crosshatches just through the rind (skin).  Place pork belly in a resealable bag.

Mince and mash garlic to a paste with the 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt.  Stir together in a small bowl with rosemary, sugar, vinegar, cayenne, remaining salt, and black pepper. Pour the marinade in the bag with the pork belly.  Seal bag (squeezing the air out) and massage the marinade into the pork belly, coating it thoroughly.  Marinate in the refrigerator for 8 to 24 hours (go for 24 hours if you can).

To prepare the glaze, bring the vinegar, sugar, and water to a boil, stirring occasionally.  Continue to boil (watching carefully) until the mixture is thick and syrupy and reduced to about 1/2 cup.  Set aside.

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Maple-Bourbon Smoked Pork Belly

Posted on April 30, 2012 by | 9 Comments

Modified from Los Angeles Times

What a smoking weekend!  Determined to clear out some of the pork products in the freezer, we decided to get the Big Green Egg smoking most of the day Saturday with a pork shoulder roast (aka pork butt) and a pound of pork belly.  We’ve been getting pork belly every month in our CSA share from Moonshine Meats – so far we have only braised it, and I was ready for something different.  The Los Angeles Times had a recipe that caught my eye, and why wouldn’t it with the title “Maple-bourbon hot-smoked pork belly”.  YUM-MEE!

The recipe calls for a three-day brine, but I can’t be expected to think that far ahead.  Our pork belly was in the marinade for a bit longer than 24 hours, and although a longer brine would no doubt increase the flavor, it nevertheless had the sweetly subtle taste of maple and bourbon.  After hours of sitting on the porch with tantalizing wafts of whiskey-barrel-spiked smoke passing by our noses, as soon as the pork belly was done we were unable to resist slicing bits off and eating it with our greasy fingers while we waited for the pork butt.  What a great appetizer – melt in your mouth tender, sweet and smoky!  What we didn’t snack on is destined for another meal, and I am looking forward to it.

One note about preparation of the pork belly – the LA Times recipe said to remove the rind (skin) before marinating, but instead I carved crosshatches in the skin and left it on.  In retrospect, I should have removed it because after smoking, the rind was quite chewy.  It is easily trimmed off after smoking, although some of the flavor is trimmed off with it. Live and learn!

Ingredients:

  • 1 pound (or more) pork belly, rind removed
  • 1 tablespoon mustard seed, toasted and crushed
  • 1 teaspoon coriander
  • several grinds of black pepper
  • 1/4 cup maple syrup
  • 2 tablespoons bourbon
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

Other special equipment:

  • Smoker
  • Charcoal
  • Drip tray
  • Hardwood chips (i.e. apple-wood; we used Jack Daniel’s Barrel Chips that we had on hand)

Pork belly rubbed with crushed mustard seed, black pepper, and coriander

Wash and dry the pork belly.  Carve crosshatches into the top fat layer, and rub in some of the toasted, crushed mustard seed, coriander, and black pepper.  Place the pork belly in a resealable plastic bag.

In a small bowl, combine the remaining mustard seed and coriander with more black pepper and the maple syrup, bourbon, and salt.  Pour the marinade in the bag and massage it into the pork belly.  Press the air out of the plastic bag and seal.  Refrigerate for at least 24 hours up to 3 days; remix and turn the bag over occasionally.

Prepare the smoker to cook at 225-250 degrees (F).  (On the Big Green Egg, be ready to use the plate inverter, feet up, with a drip pan and grill rack.)  When the coals are ready, throw in the wood chips.  Remove the pork butt from the marinade and set up on the grill, fat side up, over a drip pan.  Close the smoker and let it go for at least 2 hours before peeking in on it.  Keep the temperature of the smoker around 225 degrees.  Smoke the pork belly until the internal temperature reaches at least 150F, per the LA Times recipe.  We took our pork belly to around 170F, which took 4-5 hours. (I forgot to time it….sorry!)  The time and temperature are likely not that important…I don’t think you need to worry about drying out this lusciously fatty piece of meat.

Remove from the smoker and allow to cool slightly.  Slice into thin slices, cubes, chunks, or however you like it!  Refrigerate leftovers.

Nothing beats Grill Day…sitting there smelling the heavenly aroma…but new music day is nearly its equal! Picked up some new releases recently. First up is Ray Wylie Hubbard’s The Grifter’s Hymnal. Ray is a Texas songwriter, a little bit more rocking than most. He’s been around forever- he wrote the classic “Up Against The Wall, You Redneck Mother” in 1973- and his wordplay and musical instincts have rarely been sharper than on his new album. From “New Year’s Eve At The Gates Of Hell” to “Coochy Coochy” with Ringo Starr, this is fine waiting on the pork to cook music!

As is Leaving Eden from the Carolina Chocolate Drops, a jug and old-time band from the Carolinas. They bring the old black string band music into the 21st century, and it’s intoxicating.

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Roasted Eggplant and Sweet Pepper Dip

Posted on April 17, 2012 by | 12 Comments

Back when I played tennis, which was one broken ankle and more than a few years ago, my team may not have always have won the match but, by god, we always had a great table of food.  Not being one of the best players on my team, I liked to think that I somehow made up for having lead feet by bringing a homemade offering of something tasty .  Making “dip” was my favorite contribution – it doesn’t sound like much, but hey, they kept me on the team!  I wish I had known about this dip back then, although it might have been too distracting to the people on the court for all the oohing and awing that would have ensued.

This recipe is a hybrid of Ina Garten’s Roasted Eggplant Spread and a basic recipe for baba ghanoush.   I couldn’t decide which recipe to go with, so I came up with a blend of the two.  Call it indecision or call it inspiration – as long as you call me when it’s ready!  (Har…)  I roasted the vegetables in the oven, but this would be even better with grilled vegetables!  We ate this as a mid-afternoon snack with some gluten-free almond crackers; you can be sure it would disappear equally fast with pita triangles, vegetable sticks, bread of any sort, or even as a topping for pasta or zucchini noodles.

Be sure to pour some high quality extra-virgin olive oil over the top – the sweet fruitiness of the olive oil contrasted with the more earthy and spicy eggplant and peppers is phenomenal!  I highly recommend Kotinos Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Kasandrinos Imports.  (Join their facebook page and look for special deals.)

Seriously, you may want to double this recipe – or if you are taking it to a tennis match, triple it and keep some at home for yourself!

Ingredients:

  • 1 large eggplant
  • 2 red bell peppers, seeded
  • 4 garlic cloves, whole, peeled
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (to start with…)
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt; freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 tablespoons tahini paste
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • cayenne pepper, to taste
  • juice of one lemon
  • lots more good extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 400F.

Cut the eggplant up into 1-inch square pieces.  (Before cutting, I like to take off some of the skin in stripes around the eggplant.  Up to you.)   Cut the red bell peppers into 1 inch strips.  Toss the eggplant, peppers, and garlic in a large bowl with olive oil, salt, and several grindings of pepper.

Spread the vegetables on a parchment-lined baking sheet in a single layer.  Roast for 35-45 minutes, tossing once during cooking, until the vegetables are soft and lightly browned.  Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly.

Place the vegetables in a food processor; add the tahini, cumin, cayenne, lemon juice, and another glug (or two) of olive oil.  Process in pulses until blended.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  (Try to avoid over-processing or it will become paste-like in texture.)

Drizzle with more olive oil on top, and serve warm or at room temperature.

Today we hail the “corndog from Pedro”, Mr. Mike Watt! Originally a Minuteman with D. Boon, Mike has been one of the busiest players in the punk rock scene for many years. I interviewed him in 2001, and found him to be as nice a guy as you can find in the business. Since then he’s played bass for the reformed Iggy and the Stooges, among others. The band he formed after the D. Boon’s tragic death called fIREHOSE has been the subject of a reissue, lowFLOWs: The Columbia Anthology (’91 – ’93) (2 CD), and it gives you a glimpse of his energetic trio in all their glory.

Second up is a interesting piece of work, Spielgusher. Watt on bass, and rock journalist Richard Meltzer on “spiels”…its a rambling, woozy affair with an eclectic backing, from punk rock to surf music and all in between.

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Clams in Wine, Garlic and Herb Broth

Posted on April 4, 2012 by | 16 Comments

Over the last decade (or two), I seem to have developed quite an aversion to crowds of people.  The feeling of being hemmed in, the annoyance of trying to get where I’m going while people stand obliviously in the center of the walkway, frustration with children running over you while their self-adsorbed parents text and check their email…the list goes on.  Life is hectic out there and I don’t often have the patience for it.  (Yes, I’m old – and get off my lawn.)  However, for something really worth the risk of leaving my controlled surroundings, like a Willie Nelson concert or traveling to an exciting destination, I will steel myself against the onslaught of humanity and march with the crowd.

Patty at Chowstalker.com recently wrote about visiting the Dekalb Farmer’s Market; she drove for an hour to get there to stock up from the incredible produce and unbelievable meat selections.  This reminded, or maybe shamed me, into remembering that I live not 10 minutes from this great, international farmer’s market.  Why haven’t I been shopping there?  Primarily because it is IMMENSE  and full of people.  By immense, I mean 140,000 square feet, and by full of people, I mean they serve 100,000 customers per week.  Every aspect of shopping there feels like a battle, from parking to maneuvering through the store to getting though the oddly-arranged check out area.  (Really, a big rectangular room with cashiers against the walls does not have a traffic flow.)

I sucked it up…this was a worthwhile trip to go on.  I decided to go mid-week in the morning, to lessen the crowd aspect.  I was pleasantly surprised to see only half the huge parking was full.  Sure, there were plenty of people and carts inside, but it was manageable – especially when you see the rows and rows of fresh fruits and vegetables of all descriptions (organic included).  Please don’t get me started on all the meats, seafood, cheese, and wine.  This is a great place if you love food – a shopping paradise.  If you want selection – here it is – mounds of it!   I didn’t have much of a list prepared so I would be more open to suggestion (which is often dangerous when grocery shopping), so I did a lot of browsing.  I came home with a lot of stuff – grass-fed beef, veal rib chops, chicken thighs, pork chops, littleneck clams, parsley, eggplant, broccoli, garlic, lemons, strawberries, an assortment of mushrooms, olives, a couple bottles of wine, and a bag of Georgia-ground cornmeal.  There’s probably more that I don’t remember.  Forgive me for listing all of that, but I did it for a reason.  It all cost less than $125.  I don’t know about you, but I can’t begin to stroll through Whole Foods for that!

I’m a convert – I just have to remember to avoid the place in the afternoon, on weekends, or holidays, and always bring my checkbook (they accept cash, check or ATM only).

Here’s our first meal with the goods from that visit!  Thanks, Patty!

Ingredients (All amounts are negotiable – pretty much anything will work!):

  • Cleaned and ready for the pot!

    4 tablespoons unsalted butter, grass-fed (Kerrygold is my favorite)

  • 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2-3 tablespoons shallot, minced
  • 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
  • 1 cup white wine (I used a Sauvignon Blanc)
  • 3 pounds littleneck clams
  • 2-3 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped
  • handful of fresh parsley, chopped
  • juice from 1 lemon
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)

Before cooking the clams, keep them on ice, outside of a plastic bag (they need to breathe).  I put a shallow tray of ice in the sink and left the clams on top of that until I was ready to cook.  Just before cooking, scrub the shells with a brush under cold, running water.

Nothing can help you now, my little pretties...

In a large saute pan, melt the butter over medium high heat.  Add the garlic and shallot; cook until fragrant, without browning (1-2 minutes).  Sprinkle in desired amount of crushed pepper flakes and add wine.  Bring to a boil and add the clams and oregano.  Cover and simmer for 5-8 minutes until clams have opened up, shaking the pan occasionally.

As the clams open, carefully take them out and set aside in a bowl.  Discard any clams that have not opened after about 8 minutes.

Continue to simmer the broth until it has reduced some in volume (how much broth you would like with your clams is up to you).  Squeeze in the lemon juice and stir in the parsley.  Season with a few grindings of black pepper.  Taste to see if salt is needed (probably not, because clams are salty!) Add a touch of heavy cream to the broth, if you’d like.  Return the clams to the pan to reheat.

We served this with gluten-free cornbread.  It would also be great over some gluten-free pasta.  Enjoy!

An international shopping experience deserves some international music, don’t you think? First up is a concept that I truly love, Songs Around The World. Musicians from all around the planet collaborating, just remarkable. South Africa, Ireland, New Orleans…but all with a song in their hearts.

Next, something for the little ones…after you’ve had the clams! Dreamland: World Lullabies & Soothing Songs, “quiet time” music from around the world…lull them to sleep and broaden their worldview, all at once!

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