Category Archives: Pork

Bacon-Wrapped Turkey Breast

bacon wrapped turkey

Outside of winter holidays, we rarely have turkey.  For some reason, I never think about turkey – and for the two of us, even a small whole turkey is too much.  A 2-3 pound turkey breast, however, is just right for a meal or two, plus a couple of sandwiches.  I ordered this boneless, skinless turkey breast from Tendergrass Farms, with pastures located in southwest Virginia.  I’m really impressed with their support of local, grass-fed, family farms and their mission: “By implementing rigorous grass fed standards we are able to offer naturally raised meats of distinction that are truly unparalleled in terms of animal husbandry and welfare, culinary refinement and flavor, as well as purity and wholesomeness.”

Of course turkey breast is extremely lean, so I had some concerns that it might dry out while roasting.  I did two things to help prevent this from happening.  First I brined the turkey for a couple of hours, to add moisture and enhance the flavor of the meat.  Next, I decided to blanket the breast with woven bacon strips while it roasted.  Whether it was the superior nature of pastured turkey, the brine, or the bacon…it turned out juicy and very tasty!

[The next day, we sliced up some leftover turkey and bacon for sandwiches, using this grain-free bread.  Slice the bread and toast it for the best taste and texture.]

Ingredients:

  • 2-3 pound boneless, skinless turkey breast
  • 8-9 slices bacon
  • freshly ground black pepper or pepper blend
  • fresh sage (optional)

For brine:

  • 1/4 cup kosher salt
  • 1/4 cup organic cane sugar, coconut palm sugar, or honey
  • 5 cups of water

Mix the brine ingredients in a resealable plastic bag.  Shake vigorously until the salt and sugar have completely dissolved.  Place the turkey in the bag, squeeze out the air, and seal.  Allow to brine, refrigerated, for at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.  Take out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before cooking to return to room temperature.

bacon wrapped turkey

Turkey breast in blanket of bacon – before roasting.

Place 4 strips of bacon on a flat surface (such as a cutting board), parallel to each other.  Starting at one end, place one strip of bacon perpendicular to the others, and weave it through the 4 strips (i.e. over, under, over, under).  With the next strip of bacon, weave it in using the opposite pattern from the first (i.e. under, over, under, over).  (You probably already knew how to weave, didn’t you?) Continue until you have a bacon blanket large enough to cover the top surface of the turkey breast.  Try to keep the bacon pieces close together.

Season the brined turkey breast with pepper. Place the turkey breast on the bacon, flip it over so the bacon is on top, and tuck the loose strands of bacon underneath.  Stick a few leaves of fresh sage underneath the bacon in spots, if desired.

bacon wrapped turkey 2

Turkey breast in blanket of bacon – after roasting.

Preheat the oven to 375F.  Place the turkey on a rack in a shallow roasting pan.  Roast until the internal temperature at the center of the breast reaches 165F.  (Roast time for this turkey was approximately 2 hours, but may vary with different ovens and/or weight of turkey,)  Remove from oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

bacon wrapped turkey 3


candiGood stuff and not just for Thanksgiving anymore…how can you go wrong wrapping something in bacon? Yum! Yummy music as well. First up is Candi Staton with His Hands. Staton, know as the “Queen of Southern Soul” for her days at Fame Studios, returns with this great collection of songs including “You Don’t Have Far to Go” and “His Hands” from Will Oldham. This is old-school smouldering soul that gives the great voice of Staton room to move.

Taj Mahal has been a pivotal figure in roots music since his days with Ry Cooder in Rising Sons in the late ’60s. He broadens his reach on Kulanjan with Toumani Diabate. Mahal’s metal National guitar finds a common ground with Diabate’s tajkora, and the result, produced by Joe Boyd is mesmerizing. From Muddy Water’s “Catfish Blues” to songs of Africa, this is a spellbinding meeting of musical cultures.

“Great Balls of Fire” Bourbon Mustard Sauce

Hat tip to Pork n Whiskey blog!

Bourbon inferno

Bourbon, mustard, and pork…great combination!  Oh look, the recipe says to flambé the bourbon.  “I can do that”, I think to myself.  “This will make a great photo for the blog”, I tell James.  I set my phone on the butcher block, in camera mode.  I want to be ready in case the flames are short-lived.  I brown some pork tenderloin medallions in coconut oil.  I sauté the shallots, then pour in the bourbon and deglaze the pan.  The pan is carefully pulled back and tilted toward the flame.  Whoosh!  I grab the camera to take a couple of shots….I feel the heat.  My eyes follow the flames up, up….becoming aware that the flames are high above the stove top, licking at the ventilator hood.  The hood that is on, drawing in the heat.  The hood that vents through our attic to the outdoors.  The hood that I have neglected to clean for a while, with filters that are coated in grease.  It takes a moment to register in my brain – GREAT BALLS OF FIRE (and holy — expletives deleted) – I’m about to set the house on fire!  I grab the flaming pan and stand in the middle of the kitchen holding it away from the hood.  James comes in to check on the commotion – he has a slightly panicked look.  “It’s okay”, I say.  “I got a great shot of the flambé.”

Bourbon-mustard porkOkay, so I learned a couple of things about cooking with fire.  1) It’s probably a good idea to remove the pan from the heat source after setting it on fire.  2) BEFORE you set it on fire, make sure that you have a pan lid in a convenient place, in case it gets out of hand.  A camera does not help with flame control – although the phone would be handy in case a call to 9-1-1 is necessary.

I didn’t get such a great photo of the finished product – I’m sure you’ll understand that the excitement got to me.  Regardless, this sauce is rich with grainy Dijon mustard, butter, and subtle bourbon flavors, and VERY tasty with pork.  I served the pork with a side of roasted cauliflower, which also paired really nicely with the sauce.  Yum!

Ingredients for Bourbon Mustard Sauce:

  • 1 tablespoon coconut oil or EVOO (or drippings from meat)
  • 1 shallot (about 1/4 cup, chopped)
  • 1 cup bourbon
  • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
  • 2 tablespoons butter (from grass-fed cows)
  • kosher salt, freshly ground pepper (to taste)
  • Optional:  a touch of heavy cream

Heat a tablespoon of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat.  (If you have browned some pork chops or  tenderloin, set the pork aside and use the same pan with about 1 tablespoon of the pan drippings.)  Add the shallot and cook, stirring, for a few minutes until translucent and tender (do not brown).  Add the bourbon carefully to the pan and stir, scraping up the fond from the bottom of the pan.

Make sure you have the lid to the pan close by.  Now, very carefully, STAND BACK and pull the pan back across the flame and slightly tilt, so that the alcohol fumes ignite.  (If you have an electric burner, then use a stick lighter.)  Allow the flames to burn off the alcohol and die down.  Use the lid to dampen the flame if it is out-of-hand.

When the flames are gone, put the pan back over medium heat and add the cider vinegar.  Bring to a low boil and allow to reduce slightly.  Whisk in the mustard and butter.  [Optional: Whisk in some heavy cream, if a creamier sauce is desired.]  Season to taste.  Remove from heat.  Return the meat to the pan and turn to coat.  (Reheat over low heat if necessary – do not boil after adding the butter or the sauce might separate.)  Serve hot and enjoy!


jllSomebody say “Great Balls of Fire”?! Well then you’re talking about The Killer, Jerry Lee Lewis! A true rock and roll creator, crazy as a bedbug, but he’s got more talent in his little finger that most that came after him. One of the highlights of our trip to Memphis was a tour of Sun Studios. To be in that room where Jerry, Elvis, Johnny Cash and U2 all created their art was magical! Here’s a collection of the Killer’s great Sun sides, 25 All Time Greatest Sun Recordings. “Fire”, “Whole Lotta Shaking”, “Breathless” and more. Whew!

lastmanAnd he’s still at it, as this 2006 release shows. Last Man Standing – The Duets pairs Lewis with legendary fans such as Jimmy Page, Keith Richards, and B.B. King. Get ‘em, Killer!

Ground Pork with Spicy Thai Noodles

Ground pork Thai noodles 2

I love noodles, and I love peanut sauce.  However trying to stick with a quasi-Paleo diet means eating no gluten and avoiding legumes, which knocks out a lot of noodle possibilities and also peanuts (which are legumes, not nuts).  I’m not going to discuss why these common foods could be bad for you – there are ample articles on the subject out there if you are curious.  (Such as this and this.)

Thankfully there are good – and even superior – options.  Almond butter is one.  There are several kinds of almond butter at my local grocery, but some of them are not easy to work with.  You’ve seen the jars with the “butter” on the bottom and a huge layer of separated oil on top.  It is hard work trying to stir that stuff back together!  My favorite brand is Barney Butter, which is not only nicely blended (no-stir) and full of wholesome ingredients, it is certified gluten-free, peanut-free, and non-GMO.  On top of that, it is creamy and delicious!

We really loved this dish with ground pork and a spicy, nutty sauce mixed with rice noodles.  As with most stir-frys, it is important to get all your ingredients lined up and ready to go before you heat up that wok.  (This is called mise en place, for the gourmet-types out there.)

Ingredients:

  • 1 pound ground pork (from pastured hogs)
  • 1/2 large onion, sliced into strips
  • 1 red bell pepper, sliced into strips
  • 3-4  garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tablespoon coconut oil
  • 1/3 cup almond butter (I love Barney Butter)
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons tamari/soy sauce (gluten-free) or coconut aminos
  • 1-2 tablespoons Sriracha sauce (to taste)
  • 2 teaspoons sesame oil
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
  • 2 teaspoons fish sauce
  • 1 teaspoon lime juice
  • 8 ounces gluten-free rice noodles (type used for Pad Thai)
  • 1/3 cup retained pasta water
  • Optional serving suggestions:  Cilantro, green onions, chopped roasted almonds, lime wedges

Soak rice noodles in hot water for 8-10 minutes, or as directed by package for stir-fry preparation.  Reserve 1/3 cup of the water used to cook the noodles. Drain noodles and set aside.

In a medium-sized bowl, combine almond butter with tamari, Sriracha, sesame oil, honey, ginger, fish sauce, and lime juice.  Whisk until smooth and set aside.  (Try not to eat it with a spoon.)

In a large wok or saute pan, heat the coconut oil over medium-high heat.  Add the onions and peppers, and stir-fry for a few minutes until crisp-tender.  Place the vegetables in a bowl and set aside.  Add the ground pork and garlic to the wok.  Cook until pork is browned throughout.  Drain excess fat from wok.

Return vegetables to the wok and toss with the ground pork.  Add the drained rice noodles and stir fry for about 2 minutes until noodles are softened (al dente), but not mushy.  Add the almond butter sauce and toss together so that the sauce is well distributed.  If needed, add some (or all) of the reserved pasta water to dilute the sauce and bring the mixture to the desired consistency.

Serve garnished with cilantro, chopped green onions, or chopped nuts.  Pass lime wedges.  It is good warm or at room temperature.  (Also good leftover – these photos were taken the next day.)  Enjoy!

Ground pork Thai noodles


djDavid Johansen has worn many hats since he burst into the music scene with the New York Dolls in the ’70s- punk rocker, lounge singer as Buster Poindexter, and now bluesman. On Harry Smiths, Johansen and his band lower the volume and increase the menace performing old time and string music classics with a bluesy touch. Highly recommended!

nightOnce he split with the Dolls David enjoyed a solo career, and his second release, Here Comes the Night is a tight, high energy romp. On the title track or “Bohemian Love Pad” he shows he hasn’t lost that punky touch.

Roasted Pork Shoulder with Winter Spices

Modified from The Splendid Table

Pork Shoulder Roast

The traditional menu for New Year’s Day here in the Southeastern United States is pork, black-eyed peas, and greens.  As the saying goes, “Eat poor on New Year’s and eat fat the rest of the year.”  These foods are supposed to bring you prosperity in the coming year  – the greens symbolize money and the peas symbolize coins.  I have no idea what the pork is supposed to bring – but there is another saying that might be relevant:  “Eating high on the hog.” This expression may have originated due to the belief that the cuts of meat “higher on the hog” were better or more extravagant, but it has come to exemplify that one is successful and living well.

The pork shoulder (aka Boston butt) is not a cut “high on the hog”, but I personally favor the richer tasting, less lean cuts of pork.  A pork loin roast is delicious, if you brine it and watch it carefully to keep it from being overdone, dry, and tough.  The pork shoulder, on the other hand, is nicely marbled with fat and you have to make a real effort to overcook it.

We usually make pulled pork from a pork shoulder – this is the first time I have made a roast with it.  You still need to slow cook it to at least 185F so that the intramuscular fat and collagen have a chance to break down, making the roast tender and moist.  I was going to cook it on the Big Green Egg, but there was a steady rain on New Year’s Day so into the oven it went.  On the plus side, the house smelled fabulous all day!

This roast does not have much hands-on time, but it does take some planning due to the 2-3 day marinade in the spices.  Also, if you can freshly grind your spices, please do so for the best taste.

Ingredients:

Marinade:

  • 3-4 pound boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt)
  • 1 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1 teaspoon black pepper
  • 2-3 inch cinnamon stick, ground (or 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon)
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 6 large garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2/3 cup orange juice
  • 1/2 cup dry good-tasting red wine

Roasting:

  • 2 tablespoons rosemary, chopped
  • 1 onion, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 cup orange juice
  • 1 cup red wine

Marinate the meat:  2-3 days before cooking, spread the roast out (untie if it came tied together) and make deep cuts into the thick parts and through the fat cap.  (Do not even think about removing any of the fat.)  Mix the remainder of the marinade ingredients in a medium-sized bowl, then spread it all over the roast, stuffing it into the slits and massaging it into the pork on all sides.  Place the roast and all the marinade in a sealed plastic bag or a shallow glass dish (covered);  refrigerate until ready to roast, turning once or twice a day.

To roast:  Remove the meat and allow to come to room temperature (about an hour).  Preheat the oven to 400F.  Roll up the roast and tie with butcher’s twine.  Rub the roast all over with the rosemary and salt.

Oil a shallow roasting pan and scatter the sliced onions in the bottom.  Place the roast, fat side up, in the pan and scape all the remaining marinade over it.  Roast for 30 minutes at 400F.

Remove the roast and pour in the orange juice and red wine.  Reduce the oven temperature to 300F.  Continue to roast until the internal temperature of the pork reaches 185F.  This will take several hours (4-6 most likely) – check on the roast every hour or so to make sure the pan does not dry out (add water if necessary), check the temperature, and baste the roast with the juices.  If the temperature of the roast seems to plateau, cover the pan partially with foil to help concentrate the heat.

When the roast is done, let it rest on a cutting board, covered, for about 15 minutes.  Skim the fat from the pan juices.  To serve, roll the pork back into the pan juices to moisten, then slice.  Serve hot, with extra pan juices if desired.  Don’t forget the black-eyed peas and greens if it is New Year’s Day!

Pork shoulder roast (wide)


harlemWell, I felt high on the hog eating this! Yummy! Some yummy music this time too. Generally sons of famous artists are a pale copy of their fathers, but in the case of Steve Earle’s son Justin Townes Earle, there’s no fear of that. Justin is his own man indeed, as on Harlem River Blues. He’s taken folk, country and blues influences together and created something new and fresh, as on the title cut or “Working for the MTA”. Stellar stuff!

His second album, The Good Life, is more jukebox country, and Earle’s vocals goodliferemind you of classic country singers such as George Jones or Lefty Frizzell. Hard to believe a kid this young could be so assured and good, but the truth is in the grooves.

Vietnamese Clay Pot Pork (Thit Kho To)

I fell in love with a Vietnamese restaurant, and with Clay Pot Pork.  Chateau Saigon is a gem of a restaurant in the mecca of multi-ethnic eateries that line Buford Highway.  Restaurants in this area of Atlanta are mostly in shopping centers and strip malls, alongside pawn shops, thrift stores, and car dealerships.  In other words…not the trendy area of town.  However there is a lot of good food tucked away there, and often the most dive-y looking spots are the most authentic.  I don’t know much about Vietnamese cuisine to know if Chateau Saigon is “authentic” or not, but the restaurant is clean and filled with light, the service is elegant, and the food is beautifully presented and delicious.  If you’re looking for a new and different dining experience in Atlanta, give it a try!

The Clay Pot Pork is an intensely flavored dish – served at Chateau Saigon in a heavy, piping hot pot.  The meat is tender and is bound with a deeply rich sauce that has cooked down to the sticky essence of all its ingredients.  Wanting to make this at home, I browsed through several cookbooks and the internet to find recipes.  This recipe is modified primarily from Weave a Thousand Flavors – a blog that drew me in with mouth-watering photography and beautifully detailed instructions.

Using a good quality fish sauce is probably essential to this dish, since there is quite a bit of it in the recipe.  I like Red Boat Fish Sauce because it is 100% pure, first pressed, high-protein fish sauce – made in Vietnam with only 2 ingredients: black anchovy and sea salt.  Looking for “umami”…here it is!  It is available in some stores (see their website), but you can also order it from Amazon.

You don’t have to have a clay pot – a good Dutch oven or braising pot (with a lid) would work.  I used our Tagine- also a clay pot.

Ingredients:

  • 3 pounds fatty pork shoulder (Boston butt), cut into cubes
  • 5 to 6 cloves of garlic, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
  • 1/2 cup (heaping) shallots, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 cup coconut oil (or more if needed)
  • 1/2 to 3/4 cup coconut palm sugar
  • 1 tablespoon Sriracha hot chili sauce
  • 1/3 cup Vietnamese Fish Sauce
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 3 to 4 scallions
  • fresh ground black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon or to taste

Preheat oven to 325F.  Melt the coconut oil in the clay pot (or Dutch oven) over medium heat for a few minutes.  Turn the heat up to medium-high, then add the pork in small batches and brown on all sides.  (This will take several batches.  Be careful not to overcrowd the pan or the meat will steam instead of brown.)  When each batch is done, transfer the browned meat to a bowl.  Add more oil if necessary.

Turn off the heat and add the sugar to the pan.  Stir well to combine, then turn the heat back on to medium.  Stir the sugar constantly until it melts and starts to separate from the oil (it will glob up, bubble and look pasty…don’t worry).

Add the shallots, garlic, and ginger to the sugar.  Saute for a few minutes, until fragrant.  Stir in the fish sauce and Sriracha sauce.  Add the meat and all the accumulated juices to the pot.  Add water and ground pepper.  Stir well, tossing the meat until it is well-coated with the gravy.  Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Cover with a tight-fitting lid and place in the oven.  Cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the pork is caramel in color and tender, and the sauce is thick.  Add more water if needed during cooking to keep the sauce from drying out.

Note:  None of the recipes mention it, but I found that a lot of fat accumulated as the pork cooked.  I spooned off excess fat near the end of the cooking time, reserving some to saute the green onions (next step).

While the pork is cooking, trim off the root and any wilted green parts from the scallions.  Wash and dry with paper towels.  Slice the white part of the scallion in thin pieces, and cut the green parts into ~1-inch segments.  When the pork is almost ready, briefly saute the scallions in 1 tablespoon reserved oil from the pork (or coconut oil), until they are glossy and fragrant.

Serve the pork with Jasmine rice, topped with scallions.


Now that was tasty! The same can be said for our musical guests…Little Feat! One of America’s greatest bands, led by Lowell George, they served up some of the greatest tunes you’ll ever come across. Such as on Sailin Shoes with the classics such as “Easy To Slip” and the truckers anthem, “Willin’”

Waiting for Columbus captures Little Feat at their live zenith, and when they were cookin’, ain’t nobody better. Except of course for She Cooks! Enjoy!

Classic Paella

Anytime we go on vacation…actually, anytime we leave the house… Mr. “He Cleans” is on a quest for vinyl.  As in LPs, records, albums, and what have you.  This is the source of much of the incredible music I get to listen to, so no complaints here.  However, I hope there is either a comfy sofa in the record store or another business nearby of interest to me so that I can entertain myself while he digs through the stacks.  Ten minutes of browsing through cds and records is past my limit – he can go for hours.

When we were last in Santa Fe, near the corner of N. Guadalupe and W. San Francisco streets, he found a great shop with records, The Good Stuff.  Happily for me, on the other side of the corner there is an incredible store, The Spanish Table, filled with anything you might want for preparing and serving Spanish Foods.  From the beautiful ceramics and clay cookware, cook books, and paella pans, to cheeses, chocolates, imported spices, chorizo, and shelves of gourmet-quality ingredients….let’s just say I was thoroughly entertained.

From that visit I bought my first paella pan (I now have 2), and the fun of preparing a great, one-dish meal!  Why had I never made paella before?  It is so easy, and it is a great way to get rid of leftovers – as we discovered on our last day of vacation.  We had leftover pork chops, so I cut them into pieces and threw them in the pan with the rice, chorizo, the rest of the chicken stock, leftover roasted cauliflower, and at the end of cooking, stirred in some baby spinach.  Voila!  Refrigerator cleaned out, and it was fantastic!

Here’s a basic recipe for paella, but it is more fun to improvise with what you have on hand.   This recipe is adapted from The Spanish Table, Traditional Recipes and Wine Pairings From Spain and Portugal (authored by the owner of The Spanish Table store).  Ingredients are listed PER SERVING, so multiply by how many servings you wish to make.

Ingredients (Per Serving):

  • 5 threads saffron
  • 1/4 cup warm, dry white wine (or water, or broth)
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (or enough to completely cover the bottom of the pan when it is cool)
  • 1 chicken thigh
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1-2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 cup onion, chopped
  • 1 soft Spanish-style cooking chorizo
  • 1/2 cup uncooked Bomba rice (or preferably other Valencian rice.  If unavailable, Arborio rice from Italy can be substituted.)
  • 1/2 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika or sweet paprika
  • 1/4 cup diced or grated tomato
  • 1 cup water or clam juice
  • 1 cup chicken stock
  • 2-3 shrimp
  • 2-4 small clams or mussels
  • 1/2 red bell pepper, cut into strips
  • 1/4 cup frozen green peas, thawed
  • parsley and lemon wedges, for garnish (optional)

Dissolve saffron in wine, and set aside.

At a medium to medium-high temperature, heat the olive oil in a paella pan large enough to hold the desired servings.  Lightly season the chicken thighs on both sides with salt and pepper.  Cook the chicken thighs, turning, until browned on both sides and chicken juice runs clear.  Remove chicken from pan and set aside.

Add onions and garlic, and saute until translucent.  Add chorizo and cook until heated throughout.  Add rice and paprika, stirring until well-coated with oil, for about one minute.  Add the tomato, wine with saffron, chicken stock, and other liquids.  Bring to a boil, stirring, then adjust the heat to maintain a simmer.  Add the chicken back to the pan, and the seafood.  (If using clams or mussels, push the hinge-side down into the rice.)  Add the remaining vegetables.

Cook for 25-30 minutes, or until the rice is done. Unlike risotto, do not stir the paella.  Rotate the pan as necessary to spread out the heat.  Don’t worry about rice sticking to the bottom of the pan, because if the rice forms a caramelized layer on the pan that is a good thing called the socarrat!  (Just be careful that the rice does not dry out and burn.)

When the rice is done, remove the paella from the heat and let it rest for 15 minutes, lightly covered with foil or paper.  Or, as the the Spanish to English translation on the paella pan flyer says, “The rice, already dried, has to be for some minutes in repose before being served.”  This is the time for the cook to have an apertif, according to the cookbook.  Who am I to argue?

In repose…


Hey now! It ain’t easy coming up with new music! Like today’s artist, Dave Alvin. Formerly of The Blasters, Dave has been crafting some of the finest roots rock for years, such as Museum of Heart, his 1993 release. Great songs such as “Thirty Dollar Room” and “Don’t Talk About Her” make his an early favourite.

As is Blackjack David. The title cut, a traditional murder ballad is tailor made for Alvin. And if you can listen to “California Snow” without a lump in your throat, well, you’re a better man than I.

Balsamic Pork Belly

Recipe adapted from Ian Knauer’s Sticky Balsamic Ribs

I hope you are not tired of pork belly, for a couple of reasons.  First, this is the best version yet!  (Yes, I say that every time.)  The second reason is because I still have a few pounds of it in my freezer, so chances are you are going to see more of it.

While looking for a marinade for ribs, I came across what has to be the most highly praised recipe short of when the ancient Mesopotamians recorded the first recipe for beer, as handed down from the god Enki.  Ian Knauer, a former food editor for Gourmet magazine, said “These ribs just might be the best thing I’ve ever come up with.”  Food 52 proclaimed the recipe “Genius”.  Ruth Reichl wrote about them in her journal after making them again and again.  Review after review – serving these ribs made you the most popular person in the world. Well heck, I thought, if this is good enough for ribs, it should be heavenly on pork belly!

Looks heavenly, right?  To use Ms. Reichl’s words – “Smokey, Sweet, Tangy, Sticky”  – that’s all you have to know.

I halved the original recipe since I was marinating a small slab of pork belly vs 8 pounds of ribs.  Also I substituted coconut palm sugar for the brown sugar, to decrease the glycemic load.  We were smoking ribs, so the pork belly went in the Big Green Egg with the ribs.  However, you can also roast it in the oven using these instructions from Jamie Oliver.

The last time we smoked a pork belly, we found that the skin was very tough and ended up cutting it off.  This time I borrowed Jamie Oliver’s technique for crackling the skin before putting the belly in the smoker, which resulted in a crispier, edible rind.

Ingredients:

  • 1 slab of pork belly (1-3 pounds, or whatever you have)
  • 4 large garlic cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt + 2 teaspoons kosher salt (divided)
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
  • 1 tablespoon coconut palm sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 3/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the glaze:

  • 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 1/4 cup coconut palm sugar
  • 1/4 cup water

Rinse the pork belly and dry with paper towels.  Using a very sharp knife, cut crosshatches just through the rind (skin).  Place pork belly in a resealable bag.

Mince and mash garlic to a paste with the 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt.  Stir together in a small bowl with rosemary, sugar, vinegar, cayenne, remaining salt, and black pepper. Pour the marinade in the bag with the pork belly.  Seal bag (squeezing the air out) and massage the marinade into the pork belly, coating it thoroughly.  Marinate in the refrigerator for 8 to 24 hours (go for 24 hours if you can).

To prepare the glaze, bring the vinegar, sugar, and water to a boil, stirring occasionally.  Continue to boil (watching carefully) until the mixture is thick and syrupy and reduced to about 1/2 cup.  Set aside.

Continue reading

Summer Squash Casserole with Tomatoes and Mozzarella

Our good-gardener, neighbor Mike brought us some beautiful pattypan squash from his garden, and also a package of heirloom tomatoes that he had sun-dried and put up from another year’s bounty.  I’m so glad I live near a generous person with a green thumb!  Mike suggested cooking the squash in a tomato sauce with some cheese, in the style of Eggplant Parmesan.  I took his advice and came up with this squash casserole.

This recipe is very adaptable.  I added sausage, since I had some that needed cooking, but this would work fine as a vegetarian recipe without the sausage.

Pattypan Squash

Instead of pattypan squash, you could likely use any summer squash.

Pattypan squash are the scallop-edged summer squash that look like flying saucers.  These are the white variety, but they also may be green or yellow.  Despite their odd shape, they are easy to slice up and cook, like the other varieties of summer squash.

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 sweet onion, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1/2 pound sausage – optional (I used bulk breakfast sausage, but sweet Italian sausages – without casing – would also be good)
  • 16 ounces crushed tomatoes
  • 2 pinches Ratatouille Seasoning, or herbs of choice
  • ~1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 2 pattypan squash
  • ~1/3 cup julienned sun-dried tomatoes
  • 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese
  • ~1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In a large skillet or saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.  Add the onion and cook until softened.  Add the sausage (if using); cook while breaking up the meat into small pieces with a wooden spoon until browned.  Pour off the excess fat from the pan. Add crushed tomatoes, herbs, and red pepper flakes.  Allow to simmer on low heat for 5-10 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Remove the stem ends from the squash, and slice in half (from stem end to bud).  Place sliced side down, then cut into ~3/8-inch slices.

Preheat oven to 350F.  Lightly oil a baking dish, then spread a scant layer of tomato sauce in the bottom of the dish.  Make one layer of sliced squash across the dish, using 1/2 of the squash slices.  Distribute the julienned sun-dried tomato on top of the squash layer.  Chop up the mozzarella cheese, and add 1/2 of the cheese.  Top the cheese with the remaining slices of squash.  Add the remaining tomato sauce, spreading it evenly across the squash.  Top with remaining mozzarella cheese and Parmesan cheese.

Cover tightly with foil, and bake for 60-70 minutes.  Uncover and check for doneness – it is done when the squash is tender and the sauce is bubbly.  If needed, cook for ~ 10 additional minutes to reduce liquid and/or brown the cheese topping.


One of our favorite musicians passed this week, Doc Watson. A wonderful guitarist, singer and historian, Doc brought the music of his North Carolina mountains to the world. He will be sorely missed. Here’s a few favorites. First off, Southbound his 1966 release with his son, Merle. Includes “Walk On Boy” and “Tennessee Stud”. Amazing stuff.

Secondly, Doc played all sorts of music, from fiddle tunes to jazz, but I love his blues. Here’s a good selection called Trouble in Mind. From “Little Sadie” to “Deep River Blues” (my all time favorite), Watson knew his way around the blues. Essential.

Sage and Sweet Potato Mash (with Bangers and Caramelized Vidalia Onions)

We recently became enamored of the Japanese sweet potato, or satsumaimo.  These potatoes are dark red-skinned, almost purplish, and have a creamy white inside.  They are very sweet – particularly if you roast them – and have a denser flesh than the orange potatoes we are used to.  I decided to try mashing them for a new take on “Bangers and Mash”.

Since these potatoes are so sweet already, I used fresh sage to add a more savory aspect to the mash, along with copious amounts of cream and butter (of course).  We really liked the combination of the grilled sausages with the sage and the sweet potatoes – and the caramelized onions were like the cherry on top of a banana split.  Yum!

This is a hearty dish, probably best suited for colder weather.  However if you have the urge to grill some sausages, any time of year is good for bangers and mash!

Ingredients (about 3 servings)

  • 2 large Vidalia onions (or other sweet variety of onion)
  • ~ 2 tablespoons butter (pastured)
  • ~1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 large Japanese sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
  • heavy cream or half and half
  • more butter
  • ~1 tablespoon fresh sage leaves, chopped fine
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 Bangers

Preheat oven to 325F.  Cut the onions in half and discard the skin.  Slice into thin slices.

Using an oven-safe skillet or saute pan (with lid), melt 2 tablespoons of butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat.  Add the onions; saute for several minutes, tossing occasionally, until the onions are soft.  Cover pan and place in oven.  Cook for 1-2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the onions are deeply browned (sorry, I forgot to write down the time).  Remove from oven and set aside.

Place the cut-up sweet potatoes in a medium-size sauce pan and cover with cold water.  Bring to a boil, and cook for 15-20 minutes until the potatoes are tender (can easily be pieced with a fork).  Drain into colander, then return the potatoes to the pan.  Throw in a few dollops of butter (~2 tablespoons to start with) and a glug of half and half.  Using a potato masher, blend the potatoes with the cream and butter to the desired consistency, adding more cream and butter as needed.  Stir in the sage, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

While the potatoes are cooking, grill the bangers – on an outdoor grill, or stove-top grill or grill-plate.

Serve the bangers over the sweet potato mash, topped with caramelized onions.


Two from the Wayback Machine today (bonus points if you know what I’m referring to!). Two incredibly influential pioneers of rock and roll. Without them, you probably don’t have the Beatles, Stones, Yardbirds, etc. First up, the first album from the wildman from Macon, Here’s Little Richard. Nobody else sounds like Little Richard, and this one is loaded with hits- “Tutti Frutti”, “Long Tall Sally” and more. Amazing what a 28 minute record achieved!

Next up, Bo Diddley. “Who Do You Love”, “Mona”, and his signature song- literally! Bo was a great songwriter, guitarist and performer, and still making great records into his later years, including a terrific live set with Stones guitarist Ronnie Wood. Here’s a great collection of all the hits. Road Runner: The Chess Masters 1959-1960 Bo Diddley, Bo Diddley, have ya heard…

Pulled Pork (Smoked Pork Butt)

This may well be my laziest, virtually no-effort attempt at smoked Boston Butt yet….and I think it was one of the best.  Sometimes the less you do, the better things turn out.  No brine, no overnight rub, not much tinkering with the cooking…just a generous application of Dizzy Pig “Dizzy Dust” and onto the Big Green Egg.

When you are not working with many ingredients, it is especially important that those ingredients are of high quality.  When buying pork, support farms with pastured animals that are compassionately and sustainably raised.  Look for Heritage breeds of pork, like Berkshire, which unlike “factory farm” animals that are raised indoors for maximum size in the minimum time, are traditionally bred and raised in a natural environment for the best tasting meat.  Use fresh spices when making your own rub, or buy spice blends that have all natural ingredients and no preservatives.  I like the the assortment of rubs offered by Dizzy Pig Barbeque Company, which are also gluten-free and have no MSG.

Here’s how our lazy day went…

About an hour before cooking, I took the boneless pork butt (around 3.5 pounds) out of the refrigerator.  It got a nice rub down with olive oil, then I liberally applied the Dizzy Dust all over the butt.  (No snickering…)  The butt was then tied up with kitchen twine.  We let it sit there on the counter to come to room temperature while the spice rub melded on the surface of the meat.

In the meantime, Mr. “He Cleans” got the Big Green Egg set up for smoking, with plenty of charcoal since we anticipated this would need to cook for 7-8 hours (roughly 2 hours per pound).  When the Egg was showing a stable temperature around 225F, we threw in several handfuls of Jack Daniel’s Barrel Wood Chips for smoke, put in the inverted plate setter and grill for indirect cooking, and set that pork butt in there right on the grill.  To really notch up the effort, we also had a slab of pork belly there with the butt.   We closed up the Egg and watched the smoke pour out, hoping that our annoying, loudmouth neighbors were getting a good whiff of it and burning with jealousy.

The weather was really pleasant, so we sat on the screened-in porch…reading, playing Sudoku, browsing the interwebs.  We peeked in the Egg after 2 hours had passed; the little rush of ventilation gave the woods chips a boost and picked the smoke up again.  Then back to porch sitting, occasionally wiping drool off our chins.  After 4 or 5 hours (what is time, really?), we pulled the pork belly out of the smoker and had a little snack.  More time passed – jalapeno slaw and bbq sauce were made, more Suduku, Words with Friends, checking on what people were up to on Facebook.  Next thing you know, it’s about drinking time!

After about 6 hours, the temperature of the butt seemed to be stuck in the 160F range.  This, I found from reading blogs about meat smoking, is known as the “Stall”.  We want the meat to get above 170F, because that’s where the magic happens.  Around 170F is when the collagen in the meat begin to melt and turn gelatinous, and the meat becomes more tender and juicy and scrumptious.  One way to get around the “Stall” is to cover that butt to keep the juices from evaporating, and thereby cooling the meat.  I plopped it in a cast iron pot with a little apple juice, sealed it up with foil, and put it back on the grill.  If you don’t have a pot handy that you want to stick in a grill, you can also wrap it securely with foil.

Now that it was drinking time, the wait became a little easier.  We cooked the butt for another hour, and checked the temperature.  It was just under 180F – but more importantly, the butt passed the “fork test”.  Basically, if you can stick a fork in it and twist it easily, it’s done!  At this point, the butt should rest for about 30 minutes.  I think we made it for 15 before deciding that surely that was enough.  We put the butt in a lasagna-sized pan to make sure we got all the juices, and pulled it apart with these nifty “Bear Paws“.  The Bear Paws make easy work of picking up hot meat off the grill or out of a roasting pan, as well as shredding it.  If you don’t have Bear Paws, you can also shred the meat with forks.  When the meat had cooled down a little, I also picked through it to remove any gristly or extra-fatty parts (and only ate a little of the delicious bark while doing so).

We ate our pulled pork with hot tortillas, spicy jalapeno slaw, and smoky barbeque sauce.  Pork with guacamole and pineapple-mango salsa was also a hit.  Delicious!  What a nice ending for a lazy day!


We said goodbye on April 19 to one of America’s greatest artists, Levon Helm of The Band. His wonderful voice and unerring ear for music will never be forgotten. Eerily a week before his passing I picked up Ramble at the Ryman, and it’s a great evening of music, Levon with special guests such as John Hiatt, Sam Bush and Buddy Miller raising the roof at the legendary Ryman Auditorium.

And speaking of legendary, you can’t go wrong with Rock of Ages. The Band at the height of their formidable powers, with horn arrangements by Allen Toussaint. A must have for fans of one of America’s most beloved bands.